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She just needs engine throttle and shift controls to get out on the water. I’ve already purchased appropriate cables, but I’m unable to finish the work. I expect it can be done professionally for under 1k, or finish yourself and save the cash.
I spent years getting her ready to cruise, but health issues prevent me from going.
Equipment: electronics: - garmin 10” chartplotter - garmin GPS - 2/25 watt vhf radio, with backup handheld waterproof vhf radio - raymarine radar - raymarine st4000 wheelpilot autopilot - new wireless wind instrument installed on mast head - new Raymarine triducer (depth, speed, temp) - secondary transom mounted depth transducer - backup GPS transceiver - 250ah house battery bank - two engine starter batteries - 20 amp house battery charger - 1500 watt inverter - 300w solar panels - wind generator - new 10v/120v switchable refrigerator/freezer - 3 gallon 120v hot water tank - propane fume detector with electric valve control
gear: - roller furling head sail - 2 fortress anchors, 1 bruce anchor, each with appropriate chain lengths and rhode - 34 gallons fuel tanks, plus extra portable storage - 60 gallons fresh water tanks - dinghy davits - all sails in good shape - all standing and running rigging in solid shape - 8.8’ inflatable RIB with 5hp mercury outboard
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
The Gemini 3200 is very similar to the earlier Gemini 3000. The most obvious difference is the increased hull length above the waterline.
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