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1983 Endeavour 40 Sloop. If the Ad is still UP, the boat is still available. Theres a LOT to say about this boat. First of all, Id LIKE to sell the boat I dont NEED to. I have 3 boats, so this one is on the chopping block. Shes berthed in a Live-aboard permitted marina in Titusville. I dont live aboard, but I think the extra fee is about $100-$150 per month. Currently, the slip fee is $605.63 per month which includes 10 days per month live aboard and full use of the yacht club all month (swimming pool, showers, etc).
Now, Ive got over $80,000 cash money and over 300 hours of work into this boat. It still needs some things done, but the really expensive (and out of the water) stuff has been done. This boat made 8.6 knots SOG in a 20-Knot breeze with 1 Reef in the Main and about 85% of the 150 Genoa deployed. She can get up and move, but with her 13 Ton displacement, shes steady as a rock. The standing Rigging is less than 5 years old, and her entire rig, including chainplates, were inspected by Keys Rigging at the Marathon Boat Yard Dec 2021 and found to be in excellent Condition.
New: Halyards x3, Topping Lift, LED Steaming/Deck, Anchor Lights (I have an LED Stern light, just havent installed); Prop Shaft; PYI Dripless shaft Seal; ALL but one thru hull and seacocks replaced Jan 2022 with Marelon and new CoosaBoard backing plates. The one not replaced was only 5 months old when I closed on the boat Nov 2021; ALL new LED light fixtures throughout the interior; Windex and Lightning Dissipator on the masthead. Fuel/Water Separator system. New Trojan Batteries (4x 6v in 2 banks); The engine has undergone some replacements of wear n tear type stuff, to include Fuel Lift Pump, Injector lines, alternator, belt, and impeller. The motor purrs like a kitten and runs like a top! My wife and I had her bead blasted and we applied 3 coats of epoxy barrier coat and 5 coats of CopperCoat This is a 10-Year bottom. We took our time (11 days), and did it right. We’ve undertaken some restoration of the teak above and below.
Equipment: During our time on the hard, we also had a new dolphin striker fabricated and fitted onto the bow. VERY strong. NEW RGX-8 VHF Cable and VHF Antenna installed with the 3 new halyards. 99 Pics available Now, for the zits that still need to be popped get ready for some REAL truth in advertising. I dont like surprises any more than the next guy, so Im going to lay it all out there, as much as I know. Will there be things I dont know about that you might discover? Probably, but I dont have thousands of hours to nitpick the whole damned boat. Heres what I know/believe and what I feel should be addressed. The reason(s) I dont handle this stuff prior to selling are simple: I dont have the time and/or Im too old to physically be able to do some of it. NONE of it is complicated, or even all that costly, if you can do the work. Basic tools and simple skills are all that would be required. Also, YOUR preferences may be different from MINE, so it would be pointless to spend money on an upgrade (like a vertical windlass when someone else prefers horizontal), just to have a new owner put in a position of living with MY preference, or yanking out a new upgrade to replace it with THEIR preference. Thus, heres the things I KNOW about:
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
Dimensions for ketch rig.
See ENDEAVOUR 40 for more details.
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