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Seller's Description

1983 Endeavour 40 Sloop. If the Ad is still UP, the boat is still available. Theres a LOT to say about this boat. First of all, Id LIKE to sell the boat I dont NEED to. I have 3 boats, so this one is on the chopping block. Shes berthed in a Live-aboard permitted marina in Titusville. I dont live aboard, but I think the extra fee is about $100-$150 per month. Currently, the slip fee is $605.63 per month which includes 10 days per month live aboard and full use of the yacht club all month (swimming pool, showers, etc).

Now, Ive got over $80,000 cash money and over 300 hours of work into this boat. It still needs some things done, but the really expensive (and out of the water) stuff has been done. This boat made 8.6 knots SOG in a 20-Knot breeze with 1 Reef in the Main and about 85% of the 150 Genoa deployed. She can get up and move, but with her 13 Ton displacement, shes steady as a rock. The standing Rigging is less than 5 years old, and her entire rig, including chainplates, were inspected by Keys Rigging at the Marathon Boat Yard Dec 2021 and found to be in excellent Condition.

New: Halyards x3, Topping Lift, LED Steaming/Deck, Anchor Lights (I have an LED Stern light, just havent installed); Prop Shaft; PYI Dripless shaft Seal; ALL but one thru hull and seacocks replaced Jan 2022 with Marelon and new CoosaBoard backing plates. The one not replaced was only 5 months old when I closed on the boat Nov 2021; ALL new LED light fixtures throughout the interior; Windex and Lightning Dissipator on the masthead. Fuel/Water Separator system. New Trojan Batteries (4x 6v in 2 banks); The engine has undergone some replacements of wear n tear type stuff, to include Fuel Lift Pump, Injector lines, alternator, belt, and impeller. The motor purrs like a kitten and runs like a top! My wife and I had her bead blasted and we applied 3 coats of epoxy barrier coat and 5 coats of CopperCoat This is a 10-Year bottom. We took our time (11 days), and did it right. We’ve undertaken some restoration of the teak above and below.

Equipment: During our time on the hard, we also had a new dolphin striker fabricated and fitted onto the bow. VERY strong. NEW RGX-8 VHF Cable and VHF Antenna installed with the 3 new halyards. 99 Pics available Now, for the zits that still need to be popped get ready for some REAL truth in advertising. I dont like surprises any more than the next guy, so Im going to lay it all out there, as much as I know. Will there be things I dont know about that you might discover? Probably, but I dont have thousands of hours to nitpick the whole damned boat. Heres what I know/believe and what I feel should be addressed. The reason(s) I dont handle this stuff prior to selling are simple: I dont have the time and/or Im too old to physically be able to do some of it. NONE of it is complicated, or even all that costly, if you can do the work. Basic tools and simple skills are all that would be required. Also, YOUR preferences may be different from MINE, so it would be pointless to spend money on an upgrade (like a vertical windlass when someone else prefers horizontal), just to have a new owner put in a position of living with MY preference, or yanking out a new upgrade to replace it with THEIR preference. Thus, heres the things I KNOW about:

  1. Needs a windlass. None installed when I bought the boat, wiring is there;
  2. The deck core should be replaced. It FEELS solid, but I have my doubts. I would use the least expensive core material if I was doing the job, but Im old and even THAT would outlast me. A younger Captain might opt for the latest and greatest. I have my opinions.
  3. The topsides need a good buff n wax;
  4. Theres an issue on the starboard side toe rail that needs to be addressed: it appears some water got in and lifted up about a 16 section. Professionals have told me it just needs to be removed, scraped out, and re-bedded. Take that for what its worth.
  5. The Air Con units need to be either recharged or upgraded with newer units. My preference would be to install a LiFEPO4 battery bank and install 12v HVAC, but, again thats what ID do, which would be more expensive, but better in the long run.
  6. The Engine panel needs to be replaced. Nobody has been able to explain WHY, but the hours meter just keeps ticking off the hours, even though the motor isnt on. I bought the boat with 2200 hours on the motor. In less than 3 months, most of it sitting on the hard, the meter read 5900 or so. Weird, but there it is.
  7. The lifelines need replacing. No question about it. I was going to use 4mm dyneema in a chafe sleeve, but some folks prefer SS wire.
  8. The sails need to be cleaned and reconditioned. Theyre still crisp and have plenty of life in them.
  9. The Main and Genoa Sheets are about 3-4 seasons away from needing to be replaced, but certainly in good condition.
  10. I would consider adding a swim platform and dinghy davits.
  11. There IS an outboard motor, but no dinghy. I have NO idea if it fires up.
  12. There are TWO ancient autopilot systems on board. I havent tried to get either one to operate;
  13. I would add some more winches and deck organizers so all control lines could be handled from the cockpit. I have 4 winches (2 large, 2 small), Ill throw in, if the buyer is interested.
  14. Theres no life raft;
  15. The anchor chain is 3x 30 lengths. I use Dyneema soft shackles to connect, but, really, a single length would be ideal.
  16. There’s a REALLY crappy dodger that came in several pieces. More via email

Specs

Designers
?
Builder
Endeavour Yacht Corp.
Associations
?
# Built
?
Hull
Monohull
Keel
Fin
Rudder
Skeg
Construction
FG

Dimensions

Length Overall
39 11 / 12.2 m
Waterline Length
31 11 / 9.8 m
Beam
12 11 / 4 m
Draft
4 11 / 1.5 m
Displacement
25,000 lb / 11,340 kg
Ballast
9,000 lb / 4,082 kg

Rig and Sails

Type
Ketch
Reported Sail Area
852′² / 79.2 m²
Total Sail Area
747′² / 69.4 m²
Mainsail
Sail Area
344′² / 31.9 m²
P
43 8 / 13.3 m
E
15 8 / 4.8 m
Air Draft
?
Foresail
Sail Area
403′² / 37.4 m²
I
50 9 / 15.5 m
J
15 10 / 4.8 m
Forestay Length
53 2 / 16.2 m
Mizzen
PY
25 11 / 7.9 m
EY
8 1 / 2.5 m

Auxilary Power

Make
?
Model
?
HP
?
Fuel Type
?
Fuel Capacity
?
Engine Hours
?

Accomodations

Water Capacity
?
Holding Tank Capacity
?
Headroom
?
Cabins
2

Calculations

Hull Speed
7.6 kn
Classic: 7.58 kn

Hull Speed

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Formula

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

7.62 knots
Classic formula: 7.58 knots
Sail Area/Displacement
15.9
<16: under powered

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

Formula

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3

  • SA: Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D: Displacement in pounds.
15.94
<16: under powered
16-20: good performance
>20: high performance
Ballast/Displacement
36.0
<40: less stiff, less powerful

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Formula

Ballast / Displacement * 100

36.0
<40: less stiff, less powerful
>40: stiffer, more powerful
Displacement/Length
341.0
275-350: heavy

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

Formula

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet
340.98
<100: ultralight
100-200: light
200-300: moderate
300-400: heavy
>400: very heavy
Comfort Ratio
36.7
30-40: moderate bluewater cruising boat

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Formula

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
36.65
<20: lightweight racing boat
20-30: coastal cruiser
30-40: moderate bluewater cruising boat
40-50: heavy bluewater boat
>50: extremely heavy bluewater boat
Capsize Screening
1.8
<2.0: better suited for ocean passages

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

Formula

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
1.78
<2: better suited for ocean passages
>2: better suited for coastal cruising

Notes

Dimensions for ketch rig.
See ENDEAVOUR 40 for more details.

This listing is presented by SailboatListings.com. Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller.

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