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1964 Cascade 29 Sailboat Im selling my Cascade 29 sloop. Its a great boat but Im moving across the country and cant take it with me. Shes not a beauty queen but shes strong with lots of upgrades. Some interesting features: One of the first fiberglass production sailboats, hulls still made today in Oregon. The hull is strong and thick, hand laid cloth, no chop matt anywhere. Most Cascade 29th have a cast iron bulb fin keel. This one has a lead bulb fin keel. Plywood decks that are glassed over on the outside and open to breath in the cabin. I think this has the original Atomic 4 gas engine but the guy I bought it from said it was rebuilt around 2010. Runs good. This boat spent much of its life running around the Sea of Cortez. There is a head and the thru-hull fitting for it, but the boat just has a port-a-potty in it now. Sails great, mellow motion in large seas. This boat is narrow enough that it can be legally trailered. Asking $8500. Shes at Marina Cortez on Harbor island and the slip should be transferable if you get approved. Slips paid till the end of February.
Equipment: 2021: Cockpit and decks painted with top-of-the-line ProLine 2 part epoxy paint. Plexiglass replaced in large ports. 2020: Sea-strainer added to engine intake. New switch panel for lights added. 2019: New Mainsail from Precision sails New running rigging, halyards, and topping lift. Halyards run back to cockpit. Added coach roof winch and cams for both. Cam added to halyard run in mast. New VHF radio and handheld. Main cabin repainted with Proline 2-part epoxy paint. Larger self-tailing winches installed for sheets. Fully serviced before install. Lazy-jacks installed. 2018: New batteries (x2), charger, inverter. Tore out and re-did electrical system. All Blue Sea components Recut 140% genoa. Quantum sails. New bilge pump and float switch, new hoses installed. Bottom painted Both below the water thru-hulls removed and replace with bronze ones, new bronze seacocks added. New navigation lights New thru-hull depth sounder added Tempurpedic mattress in V berth, really comfortable. Stuff to do: Probably due for another coat of bottom paint I have 2 aluminum ports to replace 2 of the plastic ones but havent installed them yet. One of the plastic ports has a cracked mount and doesnt work very well. The interior lights need to be hooked up. Galley was on my to-do list but could use a little work. The standing rigging is older and is probably due for a refit at some point. The toe rail could use a few coats of cetol, Ill include a can. I havent installed the reefing lines for the new mainsail. I have the hardware but have not installed it. I wanted install a tiller pilot but never got to it. The cockpit drains suck. I have new fittings for the cockpit floor but I would install and run new larger lines and put a new thru-hull in for them when the boat gets hauled for bottom paint. I would get a smaller jib form Minnies, its hank on so its easy to find one cheap, the 140% genoa is a bit much in a brisk breeze. Cockpit cushions arent great. It needs a new mainsail cover. I was going to get a lazy-bag made but didnt get to it. I have the solar panels that used to be on it. You can have them if you want.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
The first ‘Cascade’. Some were sold as bare hulls. A modified version of the boat was available as long as the company was in business.
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