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Currently selling SeaFlower a completely restored 1970 Oday 2 2 Mariner. Painstakingly restored from the hull on up 4 years ago and completed at the beginning of last season. Many amenities added to make weekend overnights comfortable and enjoyable. Eye catching and a conversation piece at boat launches. Probably the most over-restored Oday Mariner out there. I love restoration and I ran out of things to do on this boat and finally have it exactly where I wanted it. Please reach out to me if you would like to contact a 3rd party that has knowledge of this boat (US Mariner Association Representative)
Equipment: Pictures of boat can be found here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ap4cWh4zt2Pu0S__U0ZSyUyMBmqc?e=x2NruE
In addition to description: Trailer - 1982 but completely restored with boat ($800 in parts) o Rotating frame where rollers mount o New tilting rollers o New tires o Stainless steel bolts to frame o New hubs with bearing buddies o Step fenders with LED marker lights o LED running, center and stop lights o Saltwater winch o Heavy duty 4 prong connector o Very much overkill for a mariner and could haul larger bolts New sails with sail cover ($1300 little over 1 season of use) o Furling Jib o Main o Sail cover New interior cushions used 2 seasons ($850) Rudder Craft High Performance Kick Up Rudder Assembly ($1,250) o https://store.ruddercraft.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=187 o Kick up rudder o Extendable (and removeable) mast crutch Aids in raising and stepping mast. Cr Mooring cover with embroidered hull number Magma grill (used one season) o Grill (larger round) o Storage case o Deck mount o Canvas cover Stereo - bluetooth speakers in cabin and cockpit - remote control in cockpit - actually really nice sounding and can play speaker outside, inside or both together. We would hang an iPad at night and stream movies through the speakers during long overnights. Large capacity battery, hook up for shore power and solar panel o Battery will run everything when anchoring for at least 3 days new last year o Shore power hookup uses a standard extension cord no need to open locker to charge battery o Inboard and waterproof charger and conditioner o Solar panel can be stepped on or mounted to deck Mahogany and Teak interior/exterior o Bulkhead panels, shelves and hooks o Cabin shelves with power panel, speakers and charge ports o Teak flooring interlocking panels for easy removal for cleaning o Anchor locker with vent Velcro attached for quick removal to get to anchor line o LED interior lights o Mahogany coming boards, stern panel (added for extra support outboard/ladder) and grab handles Cooler type refrigerator/freezer 12V/120V Portapotty All LED lighting (Masthead Nav/Anchor/Running and Cabin) Hypervent Condensation Prevention Matting under every cushion to prevent condensation buildup no more mildew or need to remove cushions Centerboard restored o Removed and sandblasted and was in surprisingly good condition since it was mostly dry-sailed o Epoxy coated o Painted with anti-fouling paint o New cable o Stainless steel pin and waterproof trunk pin points 2 sets of companionway hatch boards (one set more heavy duty for storage) New running rigging, spinlock, blocks, sheets etc. - 4 years ago, sheets a year ago Mast base block organizer and desktop fixed blocks Spinlock - makes raising and dropping main, topping lift or jib if not furled very easy- Attach jib sheet to bow and use spin lock to hold mast up when stepping single handed Original winches refurbished o 2 cockpit winches o Mast winch o Centerboard winch Window shades Cockpit awning New bilge pump, hose and check-valve not installed boat sat in a slip 2 years and is a dry boat Topping lift 2 anchors 2 Chairs Dock lines Bumpers Swim ladder Removable sheet bags and cup holders PFDs Lazy jacks New faucet (no tank since we needed the room for the portapotty) but ready to be hooked up
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
Centerboard weight = 52 lbs / 23.6 kg
Displacement includes a crew weight of 640 lbs / 290.3 kg
Minimum trailering weight = 1350 lbs / 612.35 kg
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