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Beautiful classic 1965 pearson Vanguard “Ina” ready for another Bahamas cruise for a single-hander or couple. Ina is solid old classic plastic that can be sailed to the Bahamas this season or used as a weekend cruiser and club racer in a PHRF beer can fleet.
I had big plans to do more upgrades, repairs, and TLC and sail her farther afield but life happened. I met a girl sailing on a bigger boat and couldn’t convince her to downsize, therefore I jumped ship and held Ina in storage for the last year. Breaks my heart to let her go but a boat needs someone to use and care for her so it is time to find Ina another home with someone who can enjoy her as much as I did.
I put a lot of work into getting her ready for a Bahamas cruise and enjoyed living aboard for 10 months, of which 6 were spent sailing around the Bahamas including multiple 1-3 day offshore hops.
Upgrades include: -Barrier coated bottom in Dec 2022 (Ground entire bottom down to gelcoat, repaired some blisters and any suspect areas with new glass and applied barrier coat, see photos)
-New topside paint Dec 2022
-New start and house batteries Nov 2022
-200 watts solar with MPPT controller (easily covers her loads)
-Monitor windvane rebuilt Dec 2022 with new wind paddles
-Simrad tp32 autopilot
-One settee storage locker converted to jar storage for mason jars that could be used for cans
-New Raymarine I40 paddle wheel speed log and display (thruhull installed but never installed display or ran wires)
-Rebuilt Universal diesel was installed by previous owner in 2020 or 2021
What she needs: -Engine could use a new heat exchanger (about $400)
-Sail cover is worn out, a new one would be easy to make or cheap to have made.
-Exterior varnish needs redone from sitting
-She has a soft deck around the aft deck hatch, and a small area starting to get soft on the cabin top. These were to be my next project.
I’d be happy to answer any questions! Many more pictures available on request!
Equipment: Ground Tackle: Rocna 15 (33lb) primary anchor on 110’ 5/16” chain spliced to 200’ nylon rode. Spare 35lb CQR and 20-30lb Danforth with 200’ nylon spare anchor rode.
Sails: -Main (good condition w/ 2 reefs) -150% genoa on Harken furler (very good condition but has large patch from previous owner racing incident) -100% upwind/heavy weather jib (great condition) -Asymmetrical cruising Spinaker in sock (great condition)
Rigging: -Standing rigging replaced around 2014 by previous owner -Telescoping whisker pole -Old Roller boom set up with lazy jacks for slab reefing (could be removed to make it a roller boom again but I wouldn’t) -Monitor windvane setup and rigged
Lines and Docking: -6 dedicated dock lines -5 fenders with 2 fender boards for piling docks -1 step fender -2 small dingy fenders -Tons (too many) spare halyards, sheets, and random lines.
Safety: -6 life jackets -Air horn -Flares -EPIRB (not registered to the boat, was given to me right before moving on and never messed with it but it is still in date)
Solar: 2 100 watt Renogy panels with Renogy MPPT controller. Panels were lashed to the stern push-pit as a temporary “I wanna go sailing” solution but worked so well I left them that way. They are able to rotate to follow sun or stow for weather/docking with a simple prop stick.
Electronics: -Handheld GPS (I mostly used paper charts and an iPad with Navionics) -Built in VHF (old but works great) -Handheld VHF -Hawkeye depth sounder w/ spare transducer onboard -Raymarine paddle wheel speed log and I40 display -Simrad TP-32 Tiller pilot
Electrical: -Very basic 12v setup, everything worked when she was hauled out in Aug 2023. -Group 24 start battery (Nov 2022) -Group 31 105ah house battery (Nov 2022) -usb outlets for charging devices -Has old Inverter and 120v charger with 30a shore power connection. I never used or tested either, didn’t need them with the solar and kept things simple.
Accommodations: -V-Berth with 2 berths or center cushion to make one large double -Dinette in salon than can be converted into very large double -Two quarter berths (I mostly used for storage -4 opening port-lights in v-berth and head.
Galley: -Origo unpressurized alcohol stove -Lots of cutlery/pots and pans -Hand pump faucet at galley -Large icebox that could easily be converted to a fridge
Head: -Jabsco Manual head -Custom Built 8.5 gallon gravity dump holding tank w/pumpout valve. legal In the US and easily switched to direct overboard when out of US waters. Also easily removable if desired.
Dinghy: (the “Red Solo Cup”) -Pram design custom built to fit under boom between mast and dodger and keep bow clear while sailing. -Has 2 HP 2-stroke Yamaha bought new in March 2023 but also rows great! -Great for 1-2 people, can fit 4 in calm water (ask me how I know) Takes chop surprisingly well. -built with 350lbs of positive buoyancy due to water tight compartments so it cannot sink (yes thats been tested)
Extras: -Folding bike -Large sunshade -screens for V-berth hatch and companionway -Wind scoop for V-berth hatch -lots of engine spares -lots of basic tools to get you going -epoxy, paint, and varnish supplies -Miscellaneous spares and materials for random projects and repairs -Spare propellor
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
(P. Rhodes design #c749)
There was also a tall mast (sloop) version with the following rig dimensions:
I: 40.58’ / 12.37m J: 12.25’ / 3.73m
P: 35.00’ / 10.67m E: 15.33’ / 4.67m
SA(Fore.): 248.55 ft2 / 23.09 m2
SA(Main): 268.28 ft2 / 24.92 m2
Sail Area (100% fore+main triangles): 516.83 ft2 / 48.01 m2
Also available as a yawl:
I: 37.50’ / 11.43m J: 12.25’ / 3.73m
P: 32.50’ / 9.91m E: 13.25’ / 4.04m
PY:15.67’ / 4.78m EY: 6.50’ / 1.98m
SA(Fore.): 229.69 ft2 / 21.34 m2
SA(Main): 215.31 ft2 / 20.00 m2
Sail Area (100% fore+main triangles): 495.93 ft2 / 46.07 m2
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