1978 Pearson 365 Ketch. Hauled last August for bottom job and general maintenance. Vessel is in great condition and is ready for new owners to choose bottom coatings and interior fabrics.
I am located 23 hours away from boat, which is the only reason I am willing to sell. If circumstances changed so I could be local, I would never get rid of this boat. It is iconic, has great lines, and is in great condition with a ton of life left in it.
All photos are current, taken at time of listing. Exception is the photo with the masts still stepped, which was taken at time of haul out last August.
Equipment: Recently replaced sails… they still have that new crisp feel to them and just came back from the loft for minor stitching repairs. Furling head, main with reef points, and mizzen. Sails are being stored at the marina office while performing other work on boat. All repair work has been paid for and sails can be picked up at any time during marina store hours.
Rusted steel mast step has been removed and is at local welding shop being reproduced using half inch aluminum plate, rolled to same shape as mast cross section. Aluminum is the preferred choice, since mast is same material, so this reduces corrosion. 5 inches were removed from bottom of mast, and height of step is being increased accordingly so all rigging remains the same and mast will no longer be subject to bilge water.
Hull was sanded down to bare fiberglass, faired with two liters of Interlux Watertite epoxy filler and sanded smooth as glass. Two gallons Pettit Total Protect ready to be applied. Hull is rock solid with no issues. All under water thru hulls and seacocks were removed so that barrier coat can be properly applied. While almost all of these fittings can be serviced and reinstalled, I would recommend replacing simply for peace of mind.
Powered by 40HP Westerbeke diesel and Walter V drive. Both fully operational. Racor fuel filter. Heat exchanger feeds the Force10 6 Gallon Water Heater which also has electric heat.
Galley Alder Barbour Cold Machine Plastimo Pacific 3000 2 burner propane range with oven Ocean Breeze AC unit Two aluminum horizontal 20 gallon propane tanks with propane control system 150 Gallons fresh water stored across 3 fiberglass tanks
Head Electric head with holding tank and overboard discharge via Y valve Separate Enclosed Shower
Electronics Raymarine Radar Raymarine C120 Chartplotter with nagivation card Raymarine C70 Chartplotter with navigation card Raymarine ST4000 Wheel Auto Pilot Icom IC-M602 VHF
Batteries Three Group 27 batteries 100 Amp Hours each (dated 8/18, 9/18, and 11/20) ProMariner Pro Tournament 360 Elite 36V battery charger Guest Galvanic Isolator Guest Dynaplate grounding plate
Sail Hardware 2 Lewmar two speed self tailing 48 winches 2 Lewmar two speed 43 winches 6 other various size winches Harken blocks
Lots of spares, parts, electrical supplies, sail hardware and fittings.
What’s left to launch… Apply barrier coat Install seacocks Apply bottom paint Step mast Launch (already paid for)
A couple, working together on this, could have the boat back in the water and sailing in a few weeks. I have priced the boat fairly based on actual condition and minimal work left to be done.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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