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A true classic Morgan sailboat, 11.83’ beam, shoal keel, super sturdy boat. Built back when fiberglass was layed on thick - it’s incredibly strong. Reliable Yanmar 30hp diesel engine. Solar powered, so you’re not dependent on shore power. The roomiest 33 footer you’ll see. Set up for living aboard. The previous owner, who was a diesel mechanic, replaced the old Atomic 4 gas engine with a nice reliable Yanmar 3YM30, and stuck a high output alternator 5YDXMI-113N 22.1 kw to speed battery charging. There’s around 2200 hours on it so far. Lived on board for 8 years, winter and summer. Only reason we’re selling is due to a spinal injury which precludes doing much sailing anymore. Such is life. Got to take our chances when we can. This boat is solid. It’s registered out of St.John’s Nfld, and has made the trek to the Caribbean and back no problem. Morgan O/Is were made for the Caribbean charter trade. Stable, easy to sail, roomy below, and with the shoal draft, it’s easy to scoot over areas which would block deeper boats. Saves a world of headaches. - Raymarine FLS Ecopilot forward looking sonar - Raymarine radar - Ritchie Powerdamp compass, serviced with new fluid - Standard Horizon Matrix GX300S VHF - Raymarine C80 Chartplotter - Nav equipment comprises older models, so you may want to install your own new models with the latest software. - 2 newer Nautilus AGM 100AH batteries - Noco 120v battery backup charger - 3 older 50W solar panels, with GoPower solar regulator, still working beautifully - Bluesea AC/DC breaker panel with real time power usage readouts - 2 shore power outlets, both 30w. We used one in the summertime, hooked up with the main Bluesea breaker panel. Used the second, with its own breaker panel, during winter months, so we could keep electrical inputs isolated. - Winches: 2 Merriman Holbrook 25, 1 MH 20, 1 MH 16, 1 MH 20 on mast, 1 MH 10 on mast, 1 Barlow 16 on mast - 2 CQR anchors, 1 on 300’ chain, the other on a combo 150’ chain plus 200’ line. They have their own Lewmar electric windlasses, but the one windlass needs some tlc
Equipment: - Rock solid 1.5” SS tiller. If you would rather have a wheel, the Edson binnacle/ pedestal is still in place for conversion. - New sheaves in masthead - 2010 Mainsail in good condition; Selden Furlex headsail furler with 150% genoa; older backup genoa, 1989 stormsail good condition. - Replaced old wire lifelines with dyneema core and poly exterior sheath. That way when the cheap(er) yachtbraid wears from UV degradation, just slip them off and replace with more cheap yachtbraid, leaving the dyneema in good shape. - Bronze 3 blade propellor on 1.25” SS shaft - Stuffing box & packing serviced and in good shape - Replaced old water lines with Whale water system and manual foot pumps - 50 gal poly water tank - Rainfresh 3 level water filtration in head - Rule 3900 electric emergency bilge pump (bought the biggest we could find for emergency use), smaller electric Rule pump, think it’s 1500, for regular use - New Moeller 27 gal poly diesel tank, installed as low and centred as possible. Installed at same time as lazarette reno. - Lazarette has floor, with strapping to hold gear off the hull, all epoxy resin coated for strength and preservation. Built a small workstation, complete with workbench on port side in lazarette which a smaller person (say, less than 5’7”) can sit at to work away on projects. Also contains the epoxy housing for the Webasto Airtop 3500ST diesel heater. Keeps cabin toasty warm. Note: the Webasto is due for a tune-up. - AM/FM/CD Stereo in cabin - Origo 4200 two burner alcohol stove - basic Jabsco toilet, never used, with 6gal holding tank. - Big icebox, with 4” thick epoxy resin fiberglass finished insulation insert. Not like those almost useless little badly insulated jobbies usually found on boats. This one’s set up for living with. Two blocks of ice (reg size from shops) maintain an internal temp of 6 - 8 degrees for 5 days at a time. Still have the Isotherm holding plate and system if you want to switch back to an electrical system. - Galley reno includes a sink / countertop combo. No more teacup-sized sinks. Use the whole 40” space as a sink -and/or- as a countertop. Easy to clean corian surface, drip-dry dishracks are still secure while underway. Set up for mason jar storage of foodstuffs, for fresher, cleaner, water/airproof easy and fully accessible storage. No more rummaging around precariously loaded cupboards. Withal, a roomy and pleasing boat.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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