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Description: I am the 3rd owner of this beautiful boat. This boat was raced by the previous two owners. The upgrades were a strong selling factor in my purchase decision. Sadly, I never had the skills to compete with it.I bought it in 2006 from Chris Johnston of Tyler, TX (from a listing here on Beachcats). The first owner was Bob Mimlitch from Dallas , the author of the Hobie University manual ( a main reference book for HOBIE sailing) He is a technical guru and did every positive upgrade to this boat. Per Chris: It is a great boat to sail……smooth and fast. The hulls were not over-glassed by the factory and thus weigh what they should weigh. All boats prior to 1986 are too heavy and after that it is the luck of the draw whether you get one in the right shape. I don’t believe this boat was ever sailed in salt water.Included are the Hobie 18 Assembly Manual, The Hobie 18 Performance Manual, The Hobie University Manual, and an accessory manual from 2006 - all very rare items for this age.First, the bad - most of the lines will need to be replaced. When I was washing it for the sale, I just cut many of them off. There may also be a few small plastic pieces that may need to be replaced. The Good - lots of it: • Hulls are matching from 1992 (CCMC2248A292) and were not over-glassed - no cracks - they seem to be in excellent condition. I did not find any soft spots or cracks when washing it. • Dagger boards are in very good condition and always stored in bags, indoors. • Mast: Overall good condition. The competition tip is installed, and has always been covered. Lines will need to be replaced. • Tramp: The teal mesh tramp was probably replaced in 2000. It does not show any tears or significant sun deterioration. Seems to be in very good shape. • Main Sail: The sail was almost new when I bought the boat. It has only been stored indoors in its sail bag. I did not see any wear on it when I photographed it - very stiff • Battens: The longer battens were upgraded by previous owner to stiffer battens - he also included the original set. • Jib: The previous owner kept two jibs. One for daily use and one for competition. The racing jib is in near-perfect condition - very stiff. • Roller furling for the jib • Rudders are upgraded EPO fiberglass models - always kept protected and indoors. • Tiller extension is fiberglass - Hotshot model? • Standard Hobie double trapeze lines with righting kit, but the lines on the righting kit need to be replaced. • Main blocks – Harken 7:1. Lines in excellent condition (boom and blocks kept indoors) • Jib Blocks – Harken 2:1. Lines will need to be replaced • Downhaul blocks – upgraded Harken kit. Line will need to be replaced • Cat Trax wheels may not hold air, but are included. • Trailer: 1982 Skipper B Trailer with upgraded LED lights included - wheels and spare replaced 5 years ago. Original larger rims spare also included. The trailer is decked in 1 x redwood but some boards need replacing. Trailer tags are current.Let me know if you would like more pictures or want a see it in person.Price: $2500 or best/reasonable offerIf calling, please leave a message and I will call you back. My spam filter is ON.additional pictures can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/gV80iNvZQMCNmhARvkEOdA.cQd_-qQm1uOjLzKL_uWQDO ..
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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