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The owner bought this boat in 2020
General condition and any additional information
Tartan ten has fallen on hard times. Stored (covered) since 2015, probably longer. The good: Hull and deck appear to be sound and in good shape. I do not have a moisture meter but by percussive sounding I do not find any delamination. Forward and aft bulkheads that are tabbed to the hull are solid. Bottom is clean. Rudder appears fine. I have had the Farymann diesel running and it is in good shape. Needs some fuel system components cleaned up which I am completing today. Aluminum fuel tank does not leak. There is a basic electrical system with provision for two batteries. Martec folding prop. Mast, boom and standing rigging appear complete and in good shape except missing one spreader base. There is the usual complement of original (1978) non-self tailing winches, two primaries and two on the cabin top. While not shown in the pic, I have the pulpit rail, pushpit rail and the grab rails for both sides of the companionway. The bad: The boat is pretty much a disaster area inside the cabin. The cabin sole is soft and needs replacement. The cockpit sole seems “springy” to me, but I don’t have a feel for what “normal” is. It is pretty well gutted inside and the little furniture that is there is not in great shape. On the other hand, this means that you can see and inspect everything. There are no sails, no whisker pole and no spin pole. No running rigging. The ugly: Three of the six stanchion uprights are missing. At least one section of the sliding companionway hatch is missing. One spreader base is missing as noted previously. Summary: In short, what is here is a good shell, mast, boom and engine/gearbox. Note: the trailer is not included! I bought this rig specifically to get the trailer. A cradle is included in the sale. The cradle needs a couple new pieces of plywood but is very serviceable. If the buyer is reasonably local to Rockford Illinois (Chicago, Milwaukee, Gary) the boat can be transported using the trailer shown in the pictures, but you will need a ¾ ton or larger pickup truck and a way to lift it off of the trailer and onto the cradle at the destination. I can work with the buyer on the use of the trailer. As stated, I bought this just to get the trailer, which I need freed up in exactly four weeks to transport another boat. So the boat has a chainsaw sentence hanging over it in four weeks’ time. If it is not sold by then it will be scrapped. I am asking the scrap value of the lead keel and aluminum spars which I calculate at $3400. If I can’t get something close to that I will scrap it and salvage the useable bits. Paperwork: The boat has a clean Michigan title, but when I purchased it the seller refused to leave the “buyer” lines blank. That means that in order to get an Illinois watercraft title I will need to transfer it to my name and pay the sales tax. I do not know how long it will take the Illinois DNR to issue a new title in my name given the Covid situation. So the boat will be sold with a bill of sale accompanied by a photocopy of the existing Michigan title along with a statement confirming that I will provide clear Illinois title as soon as it comes back form the DNR and legally binding me to do so. Naturally, if there is no interest, I will not bother with any of this in order to scrap it.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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