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Here are the $7500 worth of updates that I did: new bow light new cowl vent new anchor rode & shackles 5’ chain 100’ rope marked in 20’ increments new forestay (plus a backup & old forestay) new second anchor & rail mount (needs a rode) new Point Sails hank-on working jib all new running rigging including lazy jacks & jib downhaul Dyneema & double braid poly all new deck hardware Harken swivel blocks, pad eyes, cam & horn cleats, fairleads, & deck organizers all new shackles new mast horns & masthead bolts all new electrical system & wiring 100 Ah LiFePo battery, 50w solar panel mounted on hatch, 6-gang switch panel, 12-way fuse block, kill switch, Ancor marine grade wiring, & extra fuses new depth finder (needs to be installed) new cabin faerie lights w/remote control new Sunbrella coverings on cockpit & cabin cushions new Sunbrella mainsail cover new Sunbrella bimini top & boot new outboard cover new tiller sanded & 6x varnished rudder new Type IV flotation new sink drain & hose (not yet installed) new 4x 15’ docklines new 2x fenders (plus 2x old fenders) new fore hatch spring new bottom paint with waterline stencil (plus extra half-gallon of $300/gallon paint for next coat) new white pvc board companionway door, latch, & table leg (old translucent plexi one also included) new rubber sole mat cockpit & cabin new cockpit & transom drain plugs (plus extras)
Equipment: 1996 5 HP Mercury outboard in clean, solid condition with low hours (plus manual) & 1997 Garges trailer with no noisy bearings new trailer wheel clamp & coupler lock new trailer tire & spare
PLUS boat blocks, radar reflector, spare parts, extra lines, original owner’s manual, original Odyssey mainsail, & more. An old Navman GPS also comes with it.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
aka POTTER 19.
An earlier version was the HMS 18.
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