Great lil boat, Ill miss it - have another in the works so this one is for sale. Sails like a dingy and has a little (barebones) cabin. Just back from a several month trip from NC to the Dominican Republic and back via the Bahamas - she did great in some nasty weather and on offshore passages etc.
I finished a year long refit of it about two years ago. Lots of structural glass work that was/is overkill: Ground down the antifoul and gelcoat below waterline and let dry for 8 months before re-glassing the bottom with epoxy and 17oz biaxial, then two part barrier coat and antifouling. Also glassed a new 3/4 main bulkhead and bonded the other bulkheads into the hull/liner/deck, and re-cored and glassed some parts of the deck. Now a very strong hull with no osmosis.
Other work included: Re-rigging the boat with heat treated dyneema (oversized at ⅜ for cap shrouds and backstay) Moving chainplates (bronze) to hull Replacing old thru hulls with new flanged bronze seacocks on backing plates Adding solar - a 100w panel, 100Ah lead acid battery and controller Added a larger galley/counter with a giant SS sink to a seacock drain The water tank is a removable 6 gallon jug with a bulb pump into the sink Redid electrical (simple, but done well with marine wire and soldered connections, goes to simple fusebox/switches) Repainted exterior with two part marine paint (hull is interlux perfection) Added bowsprit to allow more sail area and reduce weather helm (very happy with it!) Added a dodger, over companionway so you can stand under it while cooking. … Overall in great shape, just got back from a 4000 mile trip, and I wouldn’t hesitate to head out again now. The sails and woodwork (toe rail, tiller) could do with some care and the interior is quite simple/rough but works well. Technically there are two berths but I’ve found that two people are only comfortable for a few days at a time. Composting bucket head with sawdust. The mattress is foam that I put a fitted sheet around. Popular boat with active owners association.
Equipment: Self steering windvane by Navic (works well once you know how to use it, has steered over 4000miles for me) 1 claw anchor (around 20lbs) on 20 of 5/16 g4 chain and 100 of rode, mounted on bowsprit 1 danforth anchor with 20 of 5/16 chain in cockpit locker (has chocks on foredeck as well) Inflatable kayak and paddle/pump working in-hull depth sounder like new ritchie compass in cockpit 2 lifejackets 2 sm fender Several docklines 4 jibs (2 large, one medium, one storm sm) - fair to poor condition 2 mainsails (two reefs in both) - fair condition Fire extinguisher and smoke detector EXTRA $500 for the 5hp stroke mercury 2005 longshaft outboard (old and a bit beat up but runs consistently and pushed the boat at 4 kts, can get 5kts in calm)
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
A more accurate formula devised by Dave Gerr in The Propeller Handbook replaces the Speed/Length ratio constant of 1.34 with a calculation based on the Displacement/Length ratio.
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio.311
Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64)2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam1.33)
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
From BlueWaterBoats.org
After years of building small sturdy daysailers from as early as 1964, the Cape Dory 25 was Cape Dory’s first foray into fully fledged cruisers. The story goes that founder Andy Vavolotis got a hold of the molds for the Greenwich 24 from Allied Boat Company in 1972 and raised her freeboard to improve headroom, thereby adding seven inches to her length.
Other alterations included a fully enclosed head, a hanging locker, and an enlarged galley. She’s a sloop rigged full keeler with a narrow low-freeboard hull that invites a wet ride. The design is quite dated but traditionalist will love the classic lines and underwater profile, and of course true to Cape Dory tradition, the construction is bulletproof.
Though the Cape Dory 25 was designed for coastal cruising some have taken their boats offshore. Author Ed Campbell writes of cruising the Gulf Coast of the United States, including a passage to the Bahamas. In one incident his Cape Dory 25 survived a collision with an underwater cable strung between two offshore oil rigs. For offshore work, no doubt good prep is in order, the guys at Atom Voyages suggest reducing the cockpit footwell volume and modifying the companionway dropboards so they don’t fall out when raised slightly.
Headroom is only five feet down below, this didn’t get fixed until the 25D successor came along which bumped it up to five feet eleven inches. Power comes by way of an outboard situated in a well in the lazerette. There have been small changes through the years including a switch from fixed port lights to bronze opening ports around 1979.
Production ended in 1982, when the model was replaced by the beamier, heavier, and deeper Cape Dory 25D. Of all the offshore capable Cape Dorys, non have sold better than the original Cape Dory 25 with a total production run of 846 boats.
» Cape Dory Owners Association, Cape Dory 25 brochures, owner discussions, and further information.
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